Queenie Cooks: Spaghetti with Avocado and Basil

I'm not a big believer in the "health food" label. I feel like it makes everything to which it's applied sound like it's made of sandpaper and flavorless-but-nutritious goo, as though the very idea of one's virtuousness makes everything taste like crap. (Yeah, I said it.) And this is coming from someone whose choices actually tend to run toward things like vegetables, red wine and whole grains.

So I'm always a bit suspicious of blogs that tout their devotion to "healthful lifestyles" and the like. That doesn't mean I don't read them, but it does mean I take them with a grain of salt. (After all, where else will the flavor come from? Ba-dum-bum!) Sometimes, though, I'm forced to eat my own prejudices; this time, that eating came in the form of a lemony avocado pasta.

Angela from Oh She Glows (whose incredibly cheerful mission is to show her readers that food and exercise can be fun) adapted this from a recipe she found while poking around on Recipe.org, and I have to say that her version is practically perfect in every way.  It's delightfully garlicky, super-creamy, and the bit of basil she includes hints at the arrival of spring, which, these days, feels just around the corner. (It's supposed to be 51 degrees here tomorrow - FIFTY-ONE!)

So, thank you, Angela, for reminding me that food created under the banner of health deserves love, too. Sometimes even the grouchiest among us need to be schooled.

This recipe takes about 15 minutes to throw together, and would go swimmingly with a beet salad, or even one made with escarole or kale - just to remind you that spring isn't quite upon us. Not just yet.

Creamy Avocado Spaghetti
Adapted from Oh She Glows

1/2 pound spaghetti, cooked to al dente and drained
3 garlic cloves
Juice of one lemon
2 tbs. olive oil
1 ripe avocado, pitted and removed from the peel
1/4 cup loosely packed fresh basil leaves
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Zest of one lemon, for garnish (zest your juice lemon before you juice it)

While the pasta cooks, combine the garlic, lemon juice and olive oil in the bowl of a food processor and puree until smooth. (An immersion blender and a tall, narrow container work well for this, too.)

Add the avocado and basil and continue to puree until smooth and evenly incorporated. Salt and pepper the sauce liberally, tasting for seasoning as you go.

Once the pasta is cooked and drained, return it to the pot and toss with the sauce.  Taste again for seasoning, then divide the pasta between two bowls. Top with a grind or two of fresh pepper and the lemon zest.

Serves two.

Kitchen Basics, Lesson 1, Knife Skills!

These days, it seems like you can't turn on the TV without coming across a new cooking show. 

Or enjoy a dinner out without witnessing an iphone documenting every step of the way. 

I don't need to state the obvious, but I will. Food, my friends, is in - and it's not going away anytime soon. 

I am a true believer that anybody can cook. Yes, that's right. A little basic knowledge, and a desire to learn can go a long way. That's why every other week, right here, I will be dishing out the nuts and bolts of savvy and confident cookery - to get you grooving in the kitchen!

Let's start by talking about that oft-anxiety ridden object, the knife. It's finally time to get over your fear and learn how to have a healthy relationship with this kitchen staple.

Before we start, always make sure your hands and knife are dry, and your cutting board is stable. (Here's a trick - dampen a paper towel or napkin and place it under the board to keep a slip-free grip). With these parts in check, you're now ready to roll. Make sure you've got a good, sharp multi-purpose chef's knife as well. It should be heavy enough to easily slice through tough foods - but light enough for comfort. 

The Cutting Hand:

Take your index and thumb fingers and pinch them together with the top of the blade held in between. The pressure here should be firm. 

With the other three fingers, hold the handle. Do not grip too tight, a looser grip will actually allow for more stability and control. Your index and thumb fingers should be doing most of the work.

The Guiding Hand:

The guiding hand is just as important as the cutting hand.  Having proper form will keep your food stable, control the size and consistency of your cuts AND most importantly, reduce those pesky nicks and cuts!

To do this, you will start by tucking your fingers under just slightly. Hold the food to be cut with your thumb - which should be positioned just slightly behind the rest of your fingers. This is called the "claw."

Rest the knife blade against your knuckles. Yes, I know this sounds crazy - but it works. The blade will remain stable and your fingers will stay out of the danger zone. Believe me!

To Cut:

Okay, so now that you've got the form down, it's time to cut! The movement should largely come from your wrist. In fact, the arm/shoulder/elbow should barely move at all. With momentum, practice "bouncing" your knife up and down (keep your guiding hand out of the way for this exercise). How does that feel? Most likely a little strange at first. Don't worry - it will become natural soon enough. 

Now, grab a hold of whatever you need to cut. Make sure that it contains at least one straight and stable surface. If it does not, create one. This will be the side resting on the cutting board. Having a stable surface prevents injuries, and significantly improves the consistency of your cuts.

Place your guiding hand on the object, and line up your cutting hand alongside it. With a slow and even momentum, begin cutting by pushing the tip of the knife down first and following through with the rest of the blade. (If you were to watch your wrist it should be rhythmically bobbing up and down). Each time you come up to the start position, glide your guiding hand back only as far as you'd like the size of your slice to be.

Keep practicing, and try not to get discouraged! Your skills will improve with every recipe you conquer. That's a guarantee. 

A Harvest Gathering

Happy Thursday, friends! It's been quite a while since I shared a recipe with you, and have I got a good one for you today. When we were out in California in January, my mom made Emi some apple cake that apparently made a huge impression, because she still asks for apple cake almost daily, and half the time we talk about California or my mom (who she calls "Baachan," Japanese for grandma), apple cake comes up in conversation. And I don't blame her. My own grandma made the same apple cake for me when I was a little girl, and it still tastes like home to me.

This recipe comes from the cookbook that my mom put together for the family when I was little. It's a true family treasure; everyone who owns a copy still uses it. My mom hand-lettered the entire thing, and pulled together family recipes that are entrenched in our family traditions. This recipe is timely--my mom is coming to visit tomorrow, and I can't wait to make this apple cake with her and with Emi.

Baachan's Apple Cake
Ingredients:
2c flour
2t cinnamon
2t salt
2t baking soda
4c apples (or more if you love apples), chopped coarsely
2c raisins (optional, highly recommended)
1/2c oil (I love to use olive oil when I'm baking, but canola works, too)
2 eggs
1.5c sugar

Directions:
Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
Sift together the flour, cinnamon, salt, and baking soda. Add the apples, oil, eggs, and sugar.
Pour the bater into a greased and floured 9"x13" pan. Turn the oven down to 325 degrees. Bake about 1 hour.

Mary will be here tomorrow sharing some of her knife skills (let's hope this is the beginning of the end of me butchering everything with my chef's knife) as a kickoff to her kitchen basics series. Have a lovely weekend, everyone. I hope it's filled with family traditions (new or old) and some r&r if you're in need of it or get-up-and-go if you're in need of that. If you have a family recipe that is integral to your family, we'd love to hear about it!

Queenie Cooks: Chickpea, Tomato and Escarole Stew

Every once in a while, I come across an obsession-worthy recipe.  The first time I made spaghetti carbonara, I made it three nights in a row.  And when I mastered madeleines, I baked batch upon differently flavored batch for a full week and a half.  My latest obsession is this hearty vegetarian stew, a liberally adjusted version of Deborah Madison's original.

But before we get to the recipe itself, let's talk Madison.  Do you like to eat?  Then you need Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone, Deborah Madison's masterpiece of a cookbook.  Even people who claim to be in the "I don't care for vegetables" camp adore this book.  It is simply divine.

(By the way, who are these people who don't care for vegetables? Have they never had cucumber salad? Snap peas with butter and salt? Ripe, in-season TOMATOES? But I digress.)

My friend Louisa has been a devotee of Madison's for a while now, and she's the one who pointed me to this particular dish.  Based on a traditional Spanish stew of garbanzo beans, spinach and a touch of tomato, Madison serves hers up with a dollop of easy-as-can-be garlic aioli (If you've never made homemade mayonnaise before, clickety over to Queenie for a primer.); Louisa suggested adding the egg, and she was right.

She was also, in my ever-so-humble opinion, right about upping the onion, garlic, paprika and tomato components.  Because, when it comes right down to it, nothing ever got worse because you added more onion, garlic, paprika or tomato to it, amirite?

The best part about this stew? It takes about 30 minutes to make, start to finish, and most of that is just letting the thing simmer on the stove. The other best part? It gets better after a day or two in the fridge, so it's the perfect thing to make ahead of time, or to make for lunch all week long.  You might think you'd get bored, but of this? You won't. Trust.

Chickpea, Tomato and Escarole Stew
Adapted from Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone by Deborah Madison

2 tbs. extra virgin olive oil
1 small onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 pinches red pepper flakes
2 tsp. paprika
1/4 cup finely chopped parsley
1 28-ounce can whole San Marzano tomatoes, with their juices
1 15-ounce can of chickpeas, drained and rinsed
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 bunch escarole, cored and washed (but not dried), bitter outer leaves discarded
Garlic mayonnaise (recipe follows)

Heat a wide saute pan over high heat.  Add the oil and heat through, then add the onion, garlic, red pepper flakes, paprika and half the parsley.  Saute the mixture for 2 minutes, then lower the heat to medium and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft and beginning to color.

Add the tomatoes, crushing them in your hands into reasonably-sized pieces as you do.  Add the chickpeas, season with salt and pepper, and cover.  Simmer gently for 15 to 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a skillet, cook the escarole (in batches, if need be) in the water clinging to its leaves until it has cooked down and is nice and tender.  You can add a bit of salt to the pan to help the process along, if you like.

Add the escarole to the stew and stir to distribute evenly.  If you're serving immediately, taste for seasoning and spoon into pasta plates.  Top with a healthy dollop of the garlic mayonnaise and - if you like - a fried egg.

If you'd like to save the stew for later, let it cool to room temperature, then cover tightly and place in the refrigerator.  Keeps beautifully - keeps getting better, really - for four days at least.

Serves four.

Garlic Mayonnaise

1/4 tsp. salt
1 clove garlic, minced
1 egg yolk, at room temperature
1/2 tsp. Dijon mustard (I like Maille)
1 tsp. sherry vinegar
1/2 cup vegetable or olive oil

Sprinkle the salt over the minced garlic and let sit for several minutes.  Once the garlic has soaked the salt, use the flat side of your knife to mash it into a paste.  Place the paste into a small-to-medium, heavy-bottomed bowl.  Add the yolk, mustard and sherry vinegar. Whisk to combine.

Pour the oil into a liquid measuring cup (with a spout) and add to the yolk mixture drop by drop, whisking constantly until the mixture begins to emulsify.

Whisk in the remaining oil in a thin, constant stream, whisking all the while.  If the emulsion breaks, top adding oil and just whisk until things come back together, then resume adding the oil.

Salt the mayonnaise to taste.

The mayonnaise will keep for two to three days, covered tightly, in the fridge.

Makes approximately 3/4 cup of mayonnaise.

The Teeniest Tiniest Cookies!

Photo by the supremely talented Sean Dagen for YOU + ME*

You may have seen our recent Valentine's Day post on Brooklyn Bride. If you hop on over to Holiday, Mary Ellen, the newest addition to our team, will give you the scoop on making these miniature cookies that are almost too cute to eat (I take that back. They're so perfectly tiny, you just want to eat them by the handful).

Gimme S'more(s)!

 Y'all, I love twitter (do you follow us? we're @youplusmestyle). The other day, a certain someone mentioned something about wanting s'mores. Which got s'mores stuck right in the forefront of my brain. And I remembered that you can make them in the microwave, which seems like it would be an awesome solution to the no campfire conundrum, but there are two things that have always bothered me about that method. A) you have to put your marshmallow on a cracker to keep it from gooey-ing all over your microwave, and said cracker gets soggy, and b) what good is a marshmallow if it doesn't have a nice crispy shell?
So folks, I pulled out my trusty creme brulee torch thinking I was going to add a crispy crust after the microwaving, but in this, as in so many other processes in life, I learned that the simplest solution is the best. If you and your broiler (or the broiler in your toaster oven!) have been estranged as of late, I suggest you rekindle your relationship, because he is the key to unbelieveably good wintertime s'mores.

Variations on a Theme: S'mores

Theme: 1 marshmallow, milk chocolate, and graham crackers
Broil your marshmallow sitting on one of your graham crackers. It will take around 2-3 minutes, depending on your broiler. Check often, and you may want to turn over your marshmallow mid-way. Resist the urge to put your milk chocolate in the broiler, because it will get too melty. And you will be sad. Not that I speak from experience.

Variation 1: 1 marshmallow, milk chocolate (I tried this with dark, and I thought the chocolate was too bitter as compared to the ginger), candied ginger, and ginger crisps (make sure they are crispy ginger cookies, not chewy ones!)
Broil your marshmallow sitting on one of your ginger cookies. When it's done, add candied ginger and chocolate, and smoosh together into a whole bunch of yumminess. This would have been a million times better with a cardamom marshmallow from Whimsy and Spice.

Variation 2 (this one is ridiculously yummy): 2 marshmallows, dark chocolate, 1T peanut butter, and 2 butter crisp cookies.
Broil your marshmallows on one of your cookies. While they are broiling, give the other cookie a nice smudge of peanut butter (don't be stingy!). When your marshmallows come out, assemble your s'mores, and devour like a pack of ravenous dogs with your husband. Repeat an embarrassing number of times.

I hope this keeps you all set until it's time to build campfires again. Be sure to check back tomorrow, when Elisabeth will be rounding up gifts! Have a great Thursday, and for all of you stuck in the snow, keep warm!

Queenie Cooks: Shaved Brussels Sprouts Salad

Winter in the northeast can be a rough time for vegetable lovers. By the time the middle of January rolls in, you're looking at a market full of roots and tubers, sometimes with some wintry greens like kale or escarole thrown in. Sometimes, though, you get lucky - and by lucky, I mean you spot some Brussels sprouts amongst the celery root.

Such was the stroke of luck I experienced this weekend. I decided I would do something a little different with part of my haul. I typically go for roasting - either on the stovetop on in the oven - but, today, I thought a little salad action seemed right.

I paged through my new favorite cookbook, The Frankies Spuntino Kitchen Companion & Cooking Manual, sure I remembered seeing their shaved brussels sprouts recipe somewhere in there. And, lo and behold, there it was on page 74! The recipe called for Castelrosso cheese, but I decided I could sub in the Pecorino I had in the fridge without compromising the integrity of the proceedings.

Aside from the cheese and the sprouts themselves, the recipe only has four ingredients: lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper. It is simplicity itself, which appeals mightily to me these days. After all, why trouble with a whole heap of work when five minutes of slicing and whisking leads to such bright, happy flavors? Why, indeed.

Shaved Brussels Sprouts Salad with Pecorino
Adapted from The Frankies Spuntino Kitchen Companion & Cooking Manual

1 pint Brussels sprouts
1/4 cup plus 1 tsp. olive oil
1/4 cup lemon juice
1/4 tsp. fine sea salt, plus more for serving
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup finely grated Pecorino cheese

Trim the Brussels sprouts and remove the tough, outer leaves. Slice in half lengthwise, then slice crosswise as thinly as possible. Place in a large mixing bowl.

In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, 1/4 teaspoon salt and a few grinds of pepper. Add the dressing to the sprouts a bit at a time, stopping once the sprouts are just the other side of lightly dressed. Toss to combine evenly.

Divide the sprouts between two small bowls. Top each with a sprinkling of sea salt, several grinds of pepper and half the cheese. Serve immediately.

The dressing and sprouts can be prepped separately up to 24 hours ahead of time, then combined just before serving. Just be sure to cover both tightly and refrigerate.

Serves two as a side.

Hot Toddies!

(source)

Happy Thursday, friends! Can you believe the week is almost over? Elisabeth is headed back to snowy New York tomorrow, and I'm not far behind. I'm dreading going back, because I've been sick for the last 6 weeks with cold after cold after cold, and I feel like being sick in mild weather is much more tolerable than being sick in terrible cold weather. It's been wonderful to spend some time with my parents, and I actually feel kind of lucky that I've been sick out here, because I have my mom to take care of me (sorry for getting you sick, mom).  

This is the point where I let you in on a little secret. My mom was a no-nonsense mother, one who never ever called in sick for me unless I was a) hospitalized or b) in immediate danger of dying from blood loss. But something switched when I turned 16 or so. She still wouldn't call in for me when I was sick, but she would make me a hot toddy at the end of the day.  She claims it's the go-to drink for colds, because "the honey makes your throat feel better, the caffine takes away the aches and pains, the lemon provides vitamin C, and the liquor kills the germs makes you sleep well." I'm not kidding--she seriously said that the liquor "kills the germs." Once in college, I took it a little too far when I was sick and had like seven of these, and while I may have killed tons of germs, I think I also killed my liver. Not recommended. Now I find one (or two) is just right for a sick-at-home evening while you're curled up with a movie or your trusty DVR. 

Hot Toddy

2T bourbon

2T lemon juice

2T honey

1c hot black tea (I like your classic English Breakfast or Earl Grey)

Combine all ingredients in a mug, and enjoy with some old episodes of Modern Family (I know you've seen them already, but come on, that show is hysterical).

Okay, friends, I'll see you right back here on Monday; I'm sure Elisabeth has something amazing in the works for you tomorrow. And if you happen to get sick this weekend, tell whoever will listen that you need them to run out and get you some bourbon STAT.

 

Queenie Cooks: Cauliflower with Lemon & Honey

I don't know about the rest of you, but I've spent the last couple of weeks in something approaching a perpetual state of gluttony. Doughnuts, roast beef, tacos, barbecue, sushi, cornbread, collard greens, French onion soup, brussels sprouts tempura (for reals), migas, pancakes, ice cream...trust me, the list goes on. I visited my friends Nick and Louisa in Austin for Christmas and New Year's, and the festivities were sumptuous, to say the least.

All of this I tell you to explain why I'm contemplating a focus on vegetables this week, especially those gently dressed. Now, that doesn't mean I'll be sticking to steamed spinach or forgoing flavor altogether. But it does mean I'll be depending on my trusty stable of meatless delights. Foremost among these is roasted cauliflower.

Cauliflower is ridiculously good for you, and ridiculously low in calories to boot. It's pretty delicious prepared any number of ways, but my personal favorite way to enjoy it is roasted to a seriously dark, crispy finish. Treated such, it takes on a rich, robust character entirely out of keeping with its slightly cabbage-y beginnings.

To play up that richness, I like to toss the roasted caulifower with a light, lemony vinaigrette. And because I like a bit of spice pretty much all the time, I add a sprinkling of crushed red pepper to keep things interesting. Adjust the heat level to your liking, but please don't leave it out - a bit of a kick reminds you that you're still alive, even if you aren't enjoying something fried and topped with icing right this very minute.

Spicy Roasted Cauliflower with Lemon & Honey

1 head of cauliflower, cut into stemmed florets (about 4 cups)
Olive oil
Salt and pepper
2 tbsp. lemon juice
1 tsp. honey
Zest of 1 lemon
1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
2 tbsp. finely chopped parsley

Pre-heat the oven to 450°F. In a large bowl, toss the florets with a tablespoon or so of the olive oil, and season generously with salt and pepper. Grease a jelly roll-style cookie sheet (or shallow roasting pan) with a bit more olive oil. Spread the florets out in one layer on the prepared pan.

Roast the cauliflower for 30-45 minutes, until it is cooked through and dark brown - even black - in most spots. Trust me.

In the meantime, whisk together the lemon juice, honey and a pinch of salt in a small bowl. Whisk in a tablespoon of oil and set aside.

Once the cauliflower is roasted to your liking, remove the pan from the oven and place the cooked cauliflower in a large bowl. Pour the lemon dressing over the hot cauliflower. Toss with the lemon zest, crushed red pepper, parsley and a pinch of salt. Mix well, taste and adjust for seasonings, and serve warm or at room temperature.

Serves 3-4 as a side.

Queenie Cooks: Browned Butter Pound Cake

Merry Christmas slash Happy Festivus, everyone! I'm writing this post from (slightly balmier than New York) Austin, Texas, where I'm spending the holidays with two of my favorite people in the world (Nick and Louisa) and two of my favorite dogs in the world (Oscar and Hunter).

Louisa has planned a most fabulous menu for Christmas Eve dinner, including three (yes, THREE) separate desserts. When it's your first year hosting your in-laws and your parents for Christmas, this is the sort of thing you tend to do. That said, if you're still in the planning stages for tomorrow night's dinner or Saturday's festivities, I hereby submit one of my very favorite, ridiculously easy recipes for your consideration.

Browned butter pound cake. The very words thrill me. My incredibly talented friend Lorna created the recipe, and I've found little that perfumes a house quite as incredibly.

You can make this cake with ingredients you already have in the house, and yet it makes the place smell all special occasion exciting. It bakes up flawlessly every time, and pairs gorgeously with a myriad of ice creams (vanilla, cinammon, honey, ginger) and sauces (toffee, butterscotch). It transports easily, can be made ahead of time...really, there's absolutely no reason not to make this cake.

Even if you already have plans for dessert. After all, there's always breakfast. And snack time. Or whatever.

Lorna's Browned Butter Pound Cake
Adapted from Lorna Yee

2 sticks + 1 tbsp unsalted butter

2/3 cups packed dark brown sugar

2/3 cups granulated sugar

4 large eggs

2 tsp. vanilla extract

2 cups all-purpose flour

1 1/2 tsp. kosher salt

3/4 tsp. baking soda
3/4 tsp. baking powder

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

In a skillet, melt the butter over high heat until it starts to brown and smell nutty. (Give it the occasional stir so that the butter browns evenly, and doesn’t burn.) Transfer the browned butter to a bowl and set it in the freezer for a few minutes to cool while you gather the rest of your ingredients.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the cooled, brown butter in with the sugars on medium speed until creamy and light, about 3 minutes. Add the eggs one by one, beating well after each addition. The mixture should appear about doubled in volume in the mixing bowl. Beat in the vanilla extract.

Set the mixing speed to low, and beat in the remaining ingredients until combined. Transfer the batter to a loaf pan, and smooth the top.

Bake in the preheated oven for 1 hour, and test with a skewer to ensure doneness. If the cake is still too moist in the center, bake for another 5-10 minutes, and check again.

Let cool completely before slicing.