Queenie Cooks: Latkes!

Even though I'm half-Jewish by descent (the paternal half), I didn't grow up celebrating Hanukkah, aside from the macaroni-and-glitter adorned dreidls I made in art class. My dad wasn't terribly religious, and the pull of my mom's Episcopalian family's picture-perfect New England Christmas was irresistible to all of us, I think. And so, it wasn't until I was in my 20s and living alone that I started to make latkes with any kind of regularity.

Latkes, along with doughnuts, their sweet compatriots, are traditional Hanukkah fare. Why, you ask? Because Hanukkah is that most wonderful of holidays, the one at which we celebrate fried food.

Okay, okay - so, technically, we're celebrating the miracle of the oil that burned in the temple's lamps for eight whole days following its re-dedication to the God of Israel (full story here). But you know what you do with oil when you want to feature it on a holiday table? (All Jewish holidays requiring an accompanying feast, of course.) Fry crap in it. Duh!

Hence latkes, hence doughnuts, hence awesomeness. Now, traditionally, latkes are made with potatoes (typically russet), usually accompanied by some combination of grated onion, beaten egg, and possibly a little flour. They are delicious little nuggets of potato goodness, made even better by the addition of sour cream and apple sauce.

Lately, in an effort to bring a little variety and color to the Hanukkah table, people have been roping in other vegetables for latke duty. Today, I'll be calling on zucchini, in all its ridiculous goodness, to make little latke-like fritters.

In a simultaneous nod to and twist on tradition, I've topped my potato latkes with a favorite apple-cranberry chutney of mine. The zucchini latkes are served with creme fraiche (the snooty version of sour cream) and a healthy dose of gremolata, the traditional Italian condiment made of minced lemon zest, garlic and parsley. That said, you should feel free to mix it up - I'd be lying if I said I didn't try the creme fraiche and gremolata with the potato latke, and lying even more if I told you it wasn't awesome. (Like a sour cream and chive potato chip taken to new heights.)

However you choose to serve your latkes, I just hope you give them a go. You'll be pleasantly surprised, I think, by how easy they are to make, and by how easily they please a crowd - even at a Christmas party! (Especially good news for halfsies like me.) Hankkah starts on December 1st, though, so there's no need to delay.

Note: This recipe involves deep-fat frying, which means you definitely need the right thermometer. You might also want a splatter screen to place over the skillet in between flipping the latkes. You can get both pieces of equipment for really reasonable prices; try this thermometer and this screen.

Potato Latkes
Adapted from Gourmet

1 medium white onion
3 lbs. russet potatoes (about 6 potatoes), peeled and submerged in cold water
2 tsp. lemon juice
1/3 cup flour
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
Canola oil, for frying

Using the large holes on a box grater (or the shredder attachment for your food processor), grate the onion and then the potatoes into a large bowl. Stir in the lemon juice. Stir in the flour, then add the eggs and stir to coat evenly.

Transfer the mixture to a colander set over a bowl to release some of the juices.

Pre-heat the oven to 200 degrees Fahrenheit. (Depending on your oven, this might mean the "warm" setting.) Meanwhile, heat about 1/4 inch of oil in a large, flat-bottomed skillet to 360 degrees Fahrenheit over medium heat. (I used my 12-inch straight-sided skillet.)

Once the oil is hot, use a quarter-cup measure to scoop out individual latkes into the oil. Use a fork or the back of the measuring cup to flatten the pancakes a bit. (They should be about three to four inches across.) Fry the pancakes in batches of four to six, cooking for about three minutes per side, or until the latkes turn golden brown. Turn them using a fish spatula, if you have one.

Once the latkes are cooked, transfer them to a paper towel-lined cookie sheet and place the cookie sheet in the oven until all the latkes are done and you're ready to eat!

You can also cool the latkes completely on the cookie sheet, then freeze them for up to two weeks. Re-heat them in a 450 degree oven for about 5 minutes before serving.

Makes about 20 latkes.

Zucchini Latkes
Adapted from Gourmet

3 lbs. zucchini, stem ends removed
1 1/4 cups plain, fine dry breadcrumbs
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1/2 tsp. dried thyme
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Canola oil, for frying

Using the large holes on a box grater (or the shredder attachment for your food processor), grate the zucchini into a large bowl. Toss the zucchini with two teaspoons of salt and let sit for 30 minutes.

Working in batches, squeeze the zucchini dry in a kitchen towel and transfer to another large bowl. Stir in the bread crumbs, eggs, thyme, 1/4 tsp. salt and a few turns of freshly ground black pepper.

Pre-heat the oven to 200 degrees Fahrenheit. (Depending on your oven, this might mean the "warm" setting.) Meanwhile, heat about 1/4 inch of oil in a large, flat-bottomed skillet until it shimmers. (I cooled down the oil I used for the potato latkes, then re-heated it for these.)

Scoop two tablespoons of the zucchini mixture to form each pancake, flattening them a bit with a fork. You can make 6-8 pancakes per batch. Fry the pancakes until golden brown, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to a paper towel-lined baking sheet and keep them warm until serving.

Makes about 35 latkes.

Apple-Cranberry Relish
Adapted from Gourmet

2 lbs. sweet-tart apples, such as Gala or Honeycrisp, peeled, cored and cut into 3/4 inch chunks
1 medium onion, cut into one-inch pieces
2/3 cup dark brown sugar
1/2 cup fresh orange juice
3 tbs. unsalted butter, melted
2 tsp. mustard seeds
1/4 tsp. ground ginger
1/8 tsp. ground cloves
1/2 lb. fresh cranberries

Place the oven rack in the top third of the oven and pre-heat to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Stir all ingredients - except the cranberries - together in a shallow glass baking dish until evenly mixed. Spread out into an even layer.

Place the baking dish in the oven and roast the mixture, stirring it every 10 minutes or so, for 45 minutes to an hour, until the apples are well-softened. Remove the dish from the oven and stir in the cranberries.

Return the dish to the oven for another 15 to 20 minutes, until the cranberries have softened and most of the liquid has been absorbed. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Chutney keeps well for up to three days. Cool completely, then cover with plastic wrap and store in the fridge.

Gremolata

1 lemon
1/4 cup parsley, minced
3 cloves garlic, minced
Pinch of salt

Remove the zest (just the zest - not the bitter, white pith) from the lemon using a vegetable peeler, then mince it as finely as possible with a knife. Combine in a small bowl with the parsley, garlic and salt.