Queenie Cooks: Romaine Hearts with Lemon, Crème Fraiche & Fried Capers
Thursday, April 7, 2011 at 08:00AM 
You know how sometimes you just crave the familiar? I've been feeling that way of late. I've had a crazy month, and the next two weeks promise to be just as (wonderful and) nutty. When the world sweeps me up in its madness like this, I find myself dreaming of simple comforts: reading in bed on a Friday night, taking a bracing walk through Central Park in the cold - and comfort food, of course.
Sometimes comfort food means a big bowl of pasta, and sometimes it means a burger from the local greasy spoon. And sometimes - especially when I'm feeling a bit off-balance - it means salad. See, I love salad. I don't understand people who turn their noses up at leafy greens of any kind. In my house, salad is practically a religion, and certainly its own food group. I. Love. Salad.
This romaine salad, based on one I first enjoyed at the adorable Anella (in Greenpoint, Brooklyn), has become one of my very favorites. It's only been in my repertoire for a little over a year, but it's already earned a permanent place of honor. That's partly because of its deceptive simplicity, and partly because it makes use of three of my favorite ingredients: capers, fresh croutons and crème fraiche. (Which, let's face it, is really just schmancy sour cream, and I love sour cream, too.)
While this is an incredibly easy dish to prepare, there are a few things to keep in mind. First, make sure your salad plates and your romaine are both chilled to a delightful crisp. There are times when you want the lettuce in a salad to be closer to room temperature; this is not one of them. You want firm leaves and a nice temperature contrast with the capers and croutons.
Second, make the fresh croutons. Do not be tempted to use croutons from a package, no matter how high-falutin'. The buttered toast flavor of the fresh ones is key to the success of this salad. If you want to swoon, you simply must toast a slice of bread in butter. There's nothing else to be done.
Romaine Hearts with Lemon, Crème Fraiche and Fried Capers
Adapted from Anella
1/4 cup plus one tablespoon canola oil, divided
2 tbs. capers, rinsed, drained and dried for 30 minutes on paper towels
1 tbs. butter
1 slice bread (I used whole wheat, but you can use whatever you like.)
3 tbs. crème fraiche
1 1/2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
1 romaine heart, halved lengthwise
1 tbs. dill, finely chopped
1 tbs. white onion, minced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Fry the capers:
In a small skillet or saucepan set over medium-high heat, heat 1/4 cup of the canola oil until very hot. (A drop of water flicked onto the surface should crackle and evaporate immediately.) Add the capers and fry until they turn dark brown and smell nutty. Turn off the heat and, using a slotted spoon, remove the capers to a plate covered with paper towels. Set aside.
Make the buttery croutons:
In a medium skillet set over medium-high heat, heat the remaining canola oil with the butter. Once the butter has melted and is slightly foamy, add the slice of bread and turn the heat down slightly. Toast until dark brown on one side, then flip and toast the other side. Remove to a cutting board and slice into 1/4 or 1/2 inch squares. Set aside.
Make the dressing:
In a small bowl, whisk together the crème fraiche and lemon juice. The dressing should have a thick but drizzle-able consistency, like homemade ranch dressing. Season lightly with salt and pepper.
Assemble the salad:
Place the romaine heart halves side by side on a chilled plate. Drizzle generously with the dressing (Use it all; don't be afraid.), then sprinkle with the dill. Follow with the onion, then the croutons, and finally the capers. Finish with a bit of salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
Serves one, generously, or two, if you're really, really good at sharing.
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